Oregano

Oregano smells green and peppery, a little like thyme with more edge. The flavor is savory and slightly bitter, with a warm, camphor note that lingers at the back of the palate. Dried oregano is sturdier than most leafy herbs. Heat opens it up rather than flattening it, which is why it belongs in long-simmered sauces and dry rubs more than in delicate finishing work.

Crush the leaves between your fingers as you add them. That small step breaks the cell walls and releases the oils. A teaspoon is plenty for a pot of tomato sauce feeding four, and about half that for a vinaigrette, where the flavor has nothing to hide behind. In a dry rub for chicken thighs, pork shoulder, or lamb, oregano can carry a full tablespoon alongside garlic powder, black pepper, and salt. Add it early in braises and chilis so the flavor has time to settle in. Add it late in bean soups and marinades when you want the sharper, more herbal top notes intact.

• Tomato sauce, pizza, and baked pasta
• Dry rubs for chicken, pork, and lamb
• Bean soups, lentils, and chili
• Lemon and olive oil dressings
• Roasted potatoes, zucchini, and peppers
• Marinades with garlic, vinegar, and oil

Keep the jar closed, away from the stove, and out of direct light. Steam is the real enemy, so measure into your hand rather than shaking over a simmering pot. Stored well, the leaves hold their punch for about a year, after which they smell more like dust than herb.

The 1.5 oz (43g) jar suits a cook who makes a pot of sauce every few weeks and wants the herb fresh on the rack. The 15 oz (425g) size fits a household that grills, roasts, and cooks big batches year round, and it refills the small jar many times over. The 56 oz (1588g) container is built for a restaurant line, a catering kitchen, or anyone mixing spice rubs in quantity.